A Vacation in Rome: Angels, Demons and Dirt
Our vacation this year was to Rome, Italy and it was good and bad. I’ve been trying to reconcile this trip in my own mind but am still wrestling with it so thought best to get it out of my head and in a post.
Our family approached this trip with great anticipation. My kids are 26 and 19 so it is likely our last vacation together as only the four of us. Having never been to Rome, we planned for months. Here’s what we discovered, though these opinions are more mine than my wife or kids:
1) THE FILTH: Oh my God is Rome filthy. Old is one thing, but cigarette butts, wrappers, cans and bottles, homeless people’s food debris (and urine) is everywhere, and no one has cleaned a sidewalk here since the time of Caesar (or so it seems). It is just simply dirty.
What really stunned me, though, was the endless graffiti. It covers every surface from upscale hotels and office buildings, to subway cars to every shop and apartment building.
Over several days as we were in neighborhood after neighborhood, tony shopping districts, the subway, towns outside Rome, and even major attractions, and the thought that kept coming in to my mind constantly was, “Man…Rome is a shithole!” and I couldn’t figure out if Romans didn’t care about Rome, or corruption is rampant so no one does much work, or something that makes people put up with this in a city with as much potential as this one.
This filth, or lackadaisical attitude about the cleanliness of the city, even translates to the overwhelming majority of cars driven by Romans in the city. Nearly every vehicle I looked at on the road, in parking lots and parked on the side of roads was scratched, dinged and just simply dirty. Even new cars. I just didn’t get it, especially from this land and people who have designed and given us Ferraris and Lamborghinis.
2) THE CRIME: Our last day we were riding the metro bus from a museum near the Vatican and my wallet was pickpocketed. Even though I’d taken incredible caution for the entire trip—especially since every guidebook warns over-and-over again to wear a moneybelt and be extremely cautious—this time I slipped it into my pocket so someone grabbed it. To say I was upset and angry is an understatement, so much so my daughter got off the bus since I was “making a scene.”
We went back to our hotel room to cancel my credit cards and place a fraud alert on our credit report, when a call came in from the front desk. Turns out a team from the Carabinieri, the Italian national military police, had busted a gang of Romanian pickpockets and they found my wallet in one guy’s backpack!
I got everything back. To say I was stunned and amazed is putting it mildly. Based on all the TripAdvisor forum posts, the articles and forum post at travel expert Rick Steves website, this type of crime is rampant in Rome and, as Steves said in one article, “...at least one person on every tour is pickpocketed.”
The scams, people hustling, and the ripoffs made me feel like I was traveling to a third world country, not a modern one like Italy.
But there was a lot of good and amazing things to see and experience and we had those too, thankfully.
THE GOOD: ANCIENT ROME
No question the highlights of our trip were the stunning and amazing antiquities, the Colosseum, the Forum, our trip to Pompeii (though Naples is even filthier than Rome), and the sheer volume of human history here.
Our tour of the Vatican was breathtaking, especially considering the vast wealth held by the Catholic church. That said, I saw little public effort in Rome to deal with the incredible number of homeless on the streets, and wondered where was the Catholic church? We saw the same people day after day, some who exhibited signs of mental illness. I couldn’t help but think that, if the Vatican sold a couple of their statues, Catholic Charities could do a whole lot more about the homeless problem right in their own backyard.
To see the places I’d read about all my life, ponder gladiators in the Colosseum, see the supposed place where the apostle Peter was crucified inverted, view the Sistine Chapel, and all the other major historical areas was absolutely overwhelming and totally worthwhile.
What’s curious to me is this: After our vacations to Britain, several other countries in Europe, Japan, Australia, and Peru, Rome is not on our list to return. I have a desire to see the Tuscany region in central Italy (and Florence) because of its physical beauty and as an epicenter for the Renaissance, but Rome? Nope.
About Steve Borsch
Connecting the Dots Podcast
Podcasting hit the mainstream in July of 2005 when Apple added podcast show support within iTunes. I'd seen this coming so started podcasting in May of 2005 and kept going until August of 2007. Unfortunately was never 'discovered' by national broadcasters, but made a delightfully large number of connections with people all over the world because of these shows. Click here to view the archive of my podcast posts.